C.R. Laurence CRL7708 CRL Windshield and Body Sealant

Just what I needed for sealing a 1964 Buick Wildcat windshield and back glass. Adding the sealer around the outside perimeter of the rubber seal and a judicious amount between the seal and the glass resulted in leak-free glass. Pro-tip: WD-40 will clean up any drips or strings, and then clean the WD-40 off the paint with Sprayway glass cleaner or your favorite paint safe solvent. Purchased 4 tubes, but probably could have gotten it done with just two.

Used this on my classic MG B convertible to seal around new windshield rubbers . This is OE type sealer used on older cars before urethane mounting and sealing became prevalent. Don't plan on it not being messy. Work neatly with experience and clean up with citrus clean up towels. If you've never used this product maybe you should let a pro do it !

This is a pretty good sealant.

I was looking for a professional type sealer to reseal a leak spot on the top left corner of a 2003 Ford superduty after having a replacement windshield installed by one of the major glass shops and not honoring their warranty because I brought my own factory windshield instead of using one of their cheap Chinese windshields,, the truck leaked bad every time it rained and letting them install another windshield was not going to happen since their work was not quality, so I bought this to reseal the windshield. It works great and like the other comments is live Rubber and it never cures ,and stays pliable but it flowed into the leaky area perfect and was easy to use, with some preparation to tape off the surrounding paint , trim and glass area to keep from accidentally spilling any on areas I did not want stained up. It is recommended that the product be used on a warm day so it flows in cracks better and wear rubber gloves to keep hands clean. After taping all of the surrounding areas (both painted and window areas ) I just simply put the applicator in behind the moulding and filled up the space between the windshield seal and the metal and filled up the space around the top and sides working it in and let the truck sit in the sun to make sure the sealer flows in every crack the windshield adhesive missed. After I was done I untaped everything and cleaned up any smears on the paint and glass with a shop towel soaked with wd-40 or light penatrating oil and then with a rag wet with soap and water. It does stays sticky and gummy but since it is behind the molding it wont be disturbed and it stays put, and after the first hard rain storm, no more leaking the cab is dry.Easy to apply, Works very well. Very hard to wash off hands, but WD-40 works well or Goo gone works.(Keep in mind that this is a windshield sealer not an adhesive; if installing a windshield, adhesive is to be used-if this product is used to glue in a windshield it will fall back out, it is designed to seal not to hold a windshield so follow directions carefully, and is also not a seam sealer it will not dry and stays sticky and gooey, use seam sealer for seams only. )

Arrived in good shape.

works well

FYI everyone...Butyl rubber sealant is SOFT. It will not dry hard, but should eventually dry to become the consistency of an old piece of chewing gum.That said, this stuff is messy to use the first time if you arent familiar with it. My advice... cut the tip of the tube smaller than you think you need, use disposable gloves, and have a bit of mineral spirits and paper towels or rags on hand...ones you dont mind throwing away. Lay your bead, then dip your finger in mineral spirits and run finger over the butyl if you want to smooth it out (butyl does not stick to mineral spirits). Mineral spirits will also clean up any stringys or slop that may have occured. Last thing...you don't need to rush. This stuff is not going to get tacky/dry in 1, 5, or even 25 minutes. Its great stuff though, and the best part is no more leaks!!!

It works and does eventually skin over, but just barely.BEWARE! The contents are under pressure. As soon as you puncture the inner foil, inside the applicator nipple, it starts to come out. Fast! This was with a tiny pin prick and before it was even in the caulking gun. Quite a bit of product was lost before I needed to use it. Had a large pile of it under the caulk gun next to all my tools for the job, this was with zero pressure on the tube.In fact, the tube was taken out of the caulk gun and set upright on the work bench. A few minutes later it had oozed out enough to cover the applicator nipple down to the cardboard tube. Since it finally stopped, I left it alone as the resulting mess of trying to clean it up was not worth the effort. This is how I found out it does dry, but only down to a very loose rubber that still sticks to everything.(Think freshly spat out chewing gum on pavement, at noon on a Texas summer day ... yeah, that sticky, stringy and nasty!)BEWARE #2: It gets everywhere! It is now close second to silver antiseize. (The reining champion: which appears on your hands and face just by looking at it on the shelf, across the shop) This stuff is all over my shop bench, shop floor, toolbox, hood of my truck, garbage bins, etc. Brake cleaner takes it off but can't be used on everything. Dish soap, scouring pad and a lot of effort works too.BEWARE #3: WEAR GOGGLES, MASK, and GLOVES! This stuff burns if you get it on your skin ... the fumes are very irritating to eyes, nose, throat and lungs! Use in a well ventilated area and wear safety equipment!