Abatron LiquidWood 2 Pint Kit – 2-Part Structural Epoxy Wood Hardener and Consolidant Resin.

I was looking at replacing several boards on my deck. After doing some research, my wife suggested that I give this product a try. After sanding, applying this material and re-staining we have extended the life of these boards. With the price of wood as of late, it has definitely been worth the money to use this.

I am a General Contractor, retired now after 45 years. There is not much that rots that I have not seen or been asked to repair/replace. This product has saved me and my clients so much time and money it is hard to put a value on it.I used to used polyester resin (Bondo). But in a year it will crack because it does not bond permanently to the wood cells. Abatron Liquid Wood is different. It is a very slow setting epoxy. You can mix it up and pour or brush it onto sections of rotting wood, tops of water decayed beams, delaminating plywood flooring, etc., and it will move into and be absorbed by the wood cells before it begins to cure. When cured, that part which used to be organic rot is now basically a plastic structure. Nearly impervious to water, it cannot rot any longer. Loose fibers do not need to be cleaned before applying as they become a structural part of this epoxy bond as the material is absorbed and hardens.You can probably tell that I am a big fan of this product. The sister product they make, Abatron Woodepox, is a 2 part epoxy material that is similar to lightweight spackle. Mixed in equal parts, you can work this by hand into voids, large and small, rughly shape it to the original wood member size, and walk away for 24 hrs. When you come back, it is perfectl;y bonded to the Liquidwood and the remaining solid wood. It can now be cut, sanded, shaped as necessary and painted. That part of your beam (or whatever) will not rot again.It bonds with the wood, so it moves with the wood... no cracking. No call backs. No problems.I highly recommend this over any other exterior patching or repair compound I have ever tried. It is not inexpensive. But then, neither is your time nor reputation. This is how the job is done right the first time.

I have been using this to repair rotten wood frames, deck, and other exterior wood.Overall, I am satisfied with the product.Pros:It is liquid so it works for any shape of damageEasy to mixOnce it gets cured, it becomes super hard.Cons:ExpensiveTakes 4-6 hours for the initial set.The steel container is not user-friendly.

This is great a great product for stabilizing old wood

Did exactly as advertised, a great solution for addressing rotted wood in certain areas. Just a few tips. It is quite liquid, so clean up any drips or run off. May be best to tape the work area off if you are concerned about it spreading. I would recommend more than one application.A small amount makes a lot. Also it remains tacky when after the initial cure. Which is great if you use with the wood epoxy paste. The area i repaired with this is barely noticeable and is probably harder and more weather resistant than the original wood.

Worked out better than expected.I'd never used this stuff before, or even heard of it. But I needed something to firm up the edges of a particle board chest I'm restoring (Why was it made of particle board? Why would I bother with such a substandard thing? Answer - not even sure myself).The edges had nail and screw holes (from the hinge and God only knows what else), not to mention the fact that the chest is at least 25 years old, and particle board does not age well. Anyway.This product did the job famously. Kudos to the other reviewer who observed that a splash of acetone will thin the mix quite well. This helped a lot, as I needed a "water like" consistency to apply this properly. When initially mixed, this product comes pretty close to that anyhow, but the acetone really clinched it.Working time on the can says about 45 minutes, and I got just about every minute of that, but if it's really warm your experience might come in slightly under that.The particle board soaked up the product like a thirsty guy in a desert, and with the long working time I was able to apply several applications. I'm not certain how deep it went, but it set up rock hard, and I have high confidence that when I install the new hinge screws the edges will hold better now than when it was first built.Very good product, and I suspect I will find other uses for it with other projects.

I used this to fortify the outermost sill of a bay window--the wood had gotten spongy and rotten in places. I removed the interior trim along the entire bottom of the middle window, and poured this product down into the void, from left to right. After it cured, I put a new piece of trim down, painted, and it looks like new. A container with a spout helps for pouring. I used a metal can and bent it at one point to make a spout.This product will travel into all nooks and crannies--which is good--so in my application I should have had enough sense to put paper and cardboard down on the deck outside the window. I found the drips soon enough to make clean up easy. 95% of the product went where I wanted it.It cures hard as a rock, but you could drill it later if you needed to affix hardware. It's more of a pouring product rather than a spreading product, but that's what I needed. Mix more than you think you will need. Because it finds places to go, you will probably underestimate your job.Highly recommend.

Mixed 2 pints, add 2 tbs of Mica for texture, followed mixing / stirring instructions. Poured over clean wood for under sink repair and it is still tacky. Used a heater after 24 hours when I realized it was not setting in the supposedly 6-hour settling time. Should have used fiberglass epoxy and just painted as I never had a problem with fiberglass epoxyh. I did not know if I could add texture to fiberglass epoxy.